How to Drill Into Brick Without Cracking It (Step-by-Step)

Brick is significantly softer than concrete but has its own challenges — it cracks along the mortar joints if you drill too close to an edge, and the hollow cores of some brick types mean anchors have nothing to grip. With the right technique and bits, drilling into brick is straightforward. Here is exactly how to do it without cracking.

What You Need

• Hammer drill or SDS rotary hammer in hammer mode — a regular drill without hammer action will barely scratch brick
• Carbide-tipped masonry bit — never use standard HSS bits on masonry; they fail immediately
• Masking tape — for marking depth and preventing surface chips at entry
• Compressed air or bulb blower — for cleaning holes before anchor installation

Choosing the Right Bit

All brick drilling uses carbide-tipped masonry bits — the same bits used for concrete. For a standard hammer drill, use round-shank carbide bits. For an SDS rotary hammer, use SDS-Plus carbide bits. The bit diameter depends on your anchor:

Anchor	Required Bit	Notes
3/16" Tapcon	5/32" carbide	Best anchor for brick — removable
1/4" Tapcon	3/16" carbide	Standard for medium loads in brick
3/8" Sleeve Anchor	3/8" carbide	For heavier loads in solid brick
Plastic plug	Match plug diameter	For very light loads only

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The Most Important Rule: Drill Into the Brick, Not the Mortar

Mortar joints are the weakest part of a brick wall. Mortar has roughly 1/3 to 1/2 the compressive strength of the brick itself, and it crumbles under anchor expansion forces. Always position your holes in the center of a brick unit — never in or near a mortar joint.

If your fixture layout forces a hole near a mortar joint, shift the fixture or use a Tapcon screw (which doesn't expand and puts less outward pressure on the brick) rather than an expansion anchor.

Step-by-Step: How to Drill Into Brick Without Cracking

Step 1: Mark the Location

Use a pencil to mark the hole center on the brick face — not on the mortar joint. For multiple holes, use a level and tape measure to ensure accurate spacing. Apply a small piece of masking tape over the mark — this gives the bit a surface to start on and prevents the tip from skittering across the smooth brick face.

Step 2: Set Drill to Hammer Mode

Switch your hammer drill to hammer mode. The hammering action chips away brick material efficiently — without it, you're just grinding and will overheat the bit. If using an SDS rotary hammer, use hammer-drill mode (rotation + hammering), not hammer-only mode.

Step 3: Mark the Depth

Wrap masking tape around the bit at the required depth — minimum embedment plus 1/4" for a dust reservoir. For 3/16" Tapcons in brick, drill at least 1.25" deep. For sleeve anchors, follow the anchor manufacturer's minimum embedment specification.

Step 4: Start Slow

Begin at low speed with light pressure to establish the hole. The masking tape on the brick surface prevents chipping at entry. Once the bit is seated 1/4" into the brick, increase to full speed and apply firm, steady pressure — don't force it, let the hammer action do the work.

Step 5: Withdraw Every 15-30 Seconds

Pull the bit back completely every 15-30 seconds to clear brick dust from the flutes. Dust buildup in the hole creates friction and heat — the leading cause of bit failure and overheating. This also prevents the bit from binding in the hole.

Step 6: Clean the Hole

Blow out the hole completely with compressed air or a bulb blower before installing any anchor. Brick dust in the hole acts as a lubricant between the anchor and the brick wall, reducing holding strength by 30-50%.

Step 7: Install the Anchor

For Tapcon screws: drive until snug, not tight. Over-torquing strips the threads the screw has cut into the brick and destroys holding strength. For sleeve anchors: insert and tighten to the manufacturer's torque specification using a torque wrench.

Why Brick Cracks During Drilling — and How to Prevent It

Brick cracks during drilling for three main reasons:

• Drilling in or too close to mortar joints: Mortar has low tensile strength — the hammering action causes it to crumble and can crack the brick above or below. Keep holes at least 1" from any mortar joint.
• Too close to the brick edge: Expansion anchors exert outward pressure on the hole wall. Too close to an edge, this force blows out the brick face. Minimum edge distance: 1.5" from any brick edge for Tapcons, 2.5"+ for expansion anchors.
• Using too much force: Forcing the drill instead of letting the hammer action work generates lateral forces that can crack the brick around the hole. Use steady, moderate pressure.
• Wrong drill mode: Using hammer-only mode (no rotation) acts like a chisel and can crack brick rapidly. Always use hammer-drill mode (rotation + hammer) for drilling.

Hollow Brick: Special Considerations

Many modern brick units have hollow cores — coring holes that run through the brick to reduce weight and improve insulation. If your bit breaks through into a hollow core, standard expansion anchors will not hold — there is nothing for the anchor to grip against.

For hollow brick, use:

• Tapcon concrete screws (thread into the face shell, no expansion)
• Toggle bolts (wings open inside the hollow core)
• Epoxy anchors with threaded rod (adhesive fills the core)

To test whether your brick is solid or hollow, drill a test hole — if the bit suddenly drops through after the initial resistance, you've entered a hollow core.

Related Guides

• Can You Use Concrete Anchors in Brick or Block? — Substrate-specific anchor guide
• Types of Concrete Anchors — Which anchor for which substrate
• Drill Bit Size for Anchors — Every anchor, every bit size
• Best Masonry Drill Bits — Top carbide bits for brick and concrete
• Hammer Drill vs Rotary Hammer — Which tool for masonry work
• Drill Bit Selector — Instant bit recommendation for brick, block, and concrete

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I drill into brick with a regular drill?

No — a regular drill without hammer mode will spin against brick without making meaningful progress. You need a hammer drill (with the hammer mode engaged) or an SDS rotary hammer. The hammering action chips away the brick material while the bit rotates. Without it, you'll destroy the bit and barely scratch the surface.

What is the maximum anchor size for brick?

For standard clay brick (solid), 3/8" sleeve anchors or 1/4" Tapcons are the typical maximum for residential applications. Larger anchors exert expansion forces that can crack the brick. For loads requiring 1/2" or larger anchors, use solid concrete or consult a structural engineer about the brick's actual capacity.

Should I drill into brick or mortar joints?

Always drill into the brick, never the mortar. Mortar is significantly weaker than brick and crumbles under anchor expansion forces. The exception is when using special mortar joint anchors designed specifically for tuck-pointing into mortar — but these are not for structural loads.

How deep should I drill into brick for anchors?

Minimum embedment for 3/16" Tapcon in brick: 1" minimum, 1.5" recommended. For 1/4" Tapcon: 1.25" minimum. For sleeve anchors, follow the manufacturer's specification — typically 1-1/4" to 1-5/8" depending on anchor diameter. Always drill 1/4" deeper than the minimum to provide a dust reservoir.