Hammer Drill vs Regular Drill: What Each One Is Used For

Both tools look nearly identical from across a job site — same pistol grip, same chuck, same trigger. The difference is entirely in what happens when you pull that trigger, and it decides which materials each one can actually drill. Here’s how they compare, side by side, with real numbers behind it.

What is a regular drill?

A regular drill (also called a standard drill or drill driver) rotates a bit to cut into material. It’s designed primarily for wood, metal, plastics, and light construction tasks. Regular drills provide variable speed, clutch settings for screw driving, and sometimes high torque modes. They use straight rotational force and depend on the bit geometry and cutting speed to remove material. For most homeowners, this is the first power tool they ever buy — and often the only one they need. A quality regular drill will drive screws, bore pilot holes, and handle every everyday task that doesn’t involve masonry. The tradeoff is straightforward: without a hammer mechanism, it can’t break up brick, block, or concrete — pushing harder only dulls the bit and stresses the motor.

What is a hammer drill?

A hammer drill adds a rapid forward-and-back percussion to the rotational motion. The hammering action helps break up hard, brittle materials — most commonly masonry, brick, block, and light concrete. The mechanism either uses an internal cam-and-slider that creates impact or, in higher-end tools, a pneumatic action (in rotary hammers) that delivers stronger blows.

Hammer drill vs rotary hammer (important distinction)

• Hammer drill: Best for occasional drilling into brick, block, and small concrete anchors. Uses mechanical impacts while rotating.
• Rotary hammer: Uses a piston-driven pneumatic mechanism. Far more efficient for large-diameter holes in concrete and continuous heavy-duty work. Often uses SDS-plus or SDS-max bits.

Key differences and direct comparisons

Price ranges reflect typical mid-tier 20V-class cordless and comparable corded tools.

Real Specs by Brand

Numbers pulled directly from each manufacturer’s official spec sheets — useful once you’ve picked a category and want to compare real output between brands.

Regular Drill/Driver

Bosch’s 12V Max platform trades torque for size and weight — it’s a different weight class than the 18V/20V tools here, not a weaker version of the same tool.

Hammer Drill

The DWD520 is corded; the other three are cordless — factor that into weight and runtime comparisons. Corded tools like the DWD520 are traditionally rated by amperage rather than torque, so DeWalt doesn’t publish an in-lbs figure for it.

Rotary Hammer (SDS-Plus)

The RH328VC is corded (8.0A); the other three are cordless. Impact energy shown as each manufacturer publishes it (ft-lbs or Joules); 1 ft-lb ≈ 1.36 J.

When to use each tool

• Use a regular drill when: drilling and driving in wood, metal, plastics, or when installing screws and fasteners. For pilot holes, cabinet work, stud-fastening and light carpentry tasks, a drill driver is faster and cleaner.
• Use a hammer drill when: drilling into masonry, brick, or light concrete for anchor bolts, masonry screws, or conduit. For holes up to 1/2"–5/8" in concrete and intermittent work, a hammer drill is the practical choice.
• Use a rotary hammer when: drilling multiple holes in concrete, larger diameters (3/4" and up), or chiseling tasks. For pro-level concrete work, rotary hammers are faster and reduce operator fatigue.

Can a Regular Drill Get Through Concrete?

Yes — within limits, and the limits are narrow. A standard drill with a sharp carbide-tipped masonry bit will make a small hole in concrete. It is slower, harder on the tool and harder on you, but for a handful of holes it is a real option rather than a myth.

Where it works: holes under 1/4″ in diameter, no deeper than about 1″, in older or softer concrete, block, or mortar joints. Hanging a light fixture, fitting a small plastic anchor, drilling into a mortar line rather than the brick itself.

Where it does not: anything 3/8″ or larger, poured structural concrete, holes deeper than an inch, or more than a few holes in one session. At that point the drill is not cutting so much as polishing, and the heat destroys both the bit and the drill’s clutch.

If you are going to try it, three things make the difference:

• Use a carbide-tipped masonry bit. A standard twist bit will not touch concrete — it dulls within seconds and glazes the hole.
• Peck, do not lean. Short bursts with the bit withdrawn between them clears dust and lets the tip cool. Constant pressure just generates heat.
• Stop if the dust stops. No dust means the bit is no longer cutting. Pushing harder from that point damages the tool, not the concrete.

The honest summary: a regular drill can do it once. A hammer drill does it in a fraction of the time and will still be working afterwards. If you have more than three or four holes to make, borrow or hire the right tool.

What About an Impact Driver?

Impact drivers get mistaken for hammer drills constantly, and they do completely different jobs. An impact driver hammers rotationally — short bursts of twisting force to drive long screws without stripping them or wrecking your wrist. A hammer drill hammers forward, along the axis of the bit, to chip masonry away.

The practical consequences:

• An impact driver will not drill concrete. No forward hammering, and its 1/4″ hex chuck will not hold a masonry bit properly.
• A hammer drill drives screws poorly. It has the torque but not the rotational impacts, so it cams out and strips heads on long fasteners.
• They are complements, not alternatives. The common two-tool kit is a hammer drill for holes and an impact driver for fasteners, which is why they are sold together so often.

If you are choosing between them and drilling masonry is on the list, the hammer drill comes first — it doubles as a regular drill with the hammer action switched off. An impact driver cannot.

Final decision guide

If your typical work is wood, metal, framing, or general screw driving, a regular drill/driver is the correct tool. If you occasionally need to drill into brick or block for anchors or conduit, choose a hammer drill with a solid motor and masonry bits — see our picks for home use. If you regularly drill multiple holes in concrete, or need large diameters and chiseling, invest in a rotary hammer (SDS-plus or SDS-max). Buy the tool that matches your workload rather than the occasional task.

Choosing correctly reduces downtime, bit costs, and operator fatigue. For contractors, the right investment is often a quality drill driver for finishing and a separate rotary hammer for heavy masonry—two tools that together cover nearly every job on site.

Buying advice — what professionals should look for

• Power: For corded drills look for 7–10 amp motors for heavy drilling. For cordless, choose 18V/20V brushless platforms with high torque ratings; consider 36V/40V systems for sustained concrete work.
• Modes and controls: Variable speed trigger, adjustable clutch, clear hammer-on/off switch, and a torque selector are essential.
• Chuck type: Keyed chucks hold masonry bits better on heavy loads, but quick-change chucks are faster for driving. For rotary hammers, choose SDS-plus or SDS-max depending on bit size requirements.
• Build and ergonomics: Side handle, depth stop, and vibration reduction matter for accuracy and fatigue management.
• Battery and drivetrain: Prefer brushless motors for efficiency and longer runtime. Buy into a battery platform you’ll use across other tools.
• Warranty and service: Professional jobs need rapid service and long warranties. Check availability of replacement parts and bits in local markets.
• Dust management: If you’ll drill concrete indoors, prioritize tools with compatible vacuum attachments or buy a dust shroud.

Recommended Tools by Category

For most homeowners, a combo drill/driver with hammer mode covers everything — you don't need to buy a separate hammer drill and regular drill.

Hammer Drills

A hammer drill is an ordinary drill with one addition: a pair of ridged discs behind the chuck that force it forward and back as it spins, tapping the bit into the material thousands of times a minute. That tapping is what breaks up masonry — rotation alone just polishes it. Switch the hammer action off and you have a normal drill/driver for wood and metal, which is why most people only need this one tool rather than two.

All four below are 1/2 in chuck, 18–20V, and close enough on paper that the honest answer is to stay on whatever battery platform you already own. If you own none of them, the spec differences below start to matter.

Manufacturer published figures. * Makita’s 4.2 lb is with battery; the other three are bare-tool weights. DeWalt does not publish torque for its drills, rating them in Unit Watts Out instead, which is not convertible to in-lb.

Need a corded option that never runs out of power? DeWalt DWD520 is a reliable 10-amp pick that handles all residential masonry drilling.

Need an Impact Driver Instead?

This is the distinction people get wrong most often. An impact driver also hammers — but rotationally, twisting harder in bursts when it meets resistance. A hammer drill hammers forward, along the axis of the bit. Those are different motions solving different problems: rotational impacts drive long screws without stripping the head; forward impacts break up concrete.

So an impact driver will not drill masonry, no matter how much torque it has. It also takes 1/4 in hex bits rather than a round chuck, so it cannot hold most drill bits at all. Buy one alongside a hammer drill, not instead of one.

Manufacturer published figures. Unlike its drills, DeWalt does publish in-lb torque for impact drivers.

Stepping Up to an SDS-Plus Rotary Hammer

An SDS-Plus rotary hammer looks like a bigger hammer drill and works nothing like one. Instead of two discs clicking past each other, a piston drives a hammer that strikes the back of the bit — the same principle as a jackhammer, scaled down. The bit slides in a slotted holder rather than being clamped, so the blow reaches the tip instead of being absorbed by the chuck.

That is why the numbers do not compare directly. A hammer drill is rated in blows per minute and a rotary hammer in joules per blow, so 38,000 BPM looks enormous next to 2.1 J — but each of those joules does far more work than a tap. In practice a rotary hammer drills a 1/2 in hole in cured concrete several times faster, and will keep doing it all day without cooking itself. Worth the step up if you drill masonry weekly rather than twice a year.

Manufacturer published figures, normalised to joules. Bosch publishes impact energy in foot-pounds per the EPTA standard; 1.9 ft-lb converts to 2.6 J. Comparing a ft-lb figure directly against a joule figure understates the Bosch by roughly a third.

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Pro tips from contractors

• Start every masonry hole with the hammer off to create a pilot and reduce bit walking, then switch hammer on for full depth.
• Use a punch or center punch on tile or glazed surfaces before drilling to prevent bit walk and cracking.
• Match bit type to the job: carbide-tipped masonry bits for hammer drills; SDS-plus or SDS-max for rotary hammers. Don’t use wood or metal bits in hammer mode on masonry.
• Corded hammer drills generally give constant power for repetitive concrete drilling; high-capacity cordless (18V/20V, brushless) tools can match corded performance for moderate workloads. For extensive concrete work, prefer corded or high-voltage cordless with battery belt systems.
• When drilling metal, use cutting oil and appropriate speeds. Disable hammer mode (don’t use the percussion action on metal).
• For anchor holes in clean, reinforced concrete, periodically withdraw the bit to clear dust and prevent glazing of the carbide tip; use a vacuum or compressed air for dust control and OSHA compliance when needed.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Using hammer mode on wood or metal — this damages bits and workpieces.
• Using the wrong bit — masonry bits in wood give poor results and metal bits in masonry will blunt quickly.
• Applying excessive pressure — hammer drills rely on impact; pushing too hard can overheat the bit and wear the motor.
• Ignoring ergonomics — prolonged hammering without side handle and anti-vibration grip causes fatigue and loss of control.
• Not using dust extraction for concrete — silica dust is hazardous. Use a dust shroud or HEPA vacuum for frequent work.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a hammer drill for home projects?

If you ever drill into concrete, brick, or block, yes. A hammer drill is essential for masonry work. For wood, metal, drywall, and plastic, a regular drill is sufficient. A combination drill/hammer drill (most modern cordless drills) gives you both modes in one tool and is the best choice for homeowners.

What does hammer mode do on a drill?

Hammer mode adds a rapid in-out hammering action (thousands of times per minute) to the standard rotation. This hammering action breaks up the concrete ahead of the bit, allowing the carbide tip to remove material efficiently. Without hammer mode, the bit just grinds and generates excessive heat.

Can a regular drill drill into concrete?

For small holes it can. A standard drill with a sharp carbide-tipped masonry bit will make holes under 1/4 inch and about an inch deep in softer concrete, block or mortar joints. It will not handle 3/8 inch or larger, poured structural concrete, or more than a few holes before the heat destroys the bit.

What is the difference between a hammer drill and an impact driver?

A hammer drill hammers forward, along the axis of the bit, to chip masonry away. An impact driver hammers rotationally, delivering bursts of twisting force to drive long screws. An impact driver cannot drill concrete, and a hammer drill drives long fasteners poorly. They are complements, not alternatives.

Can a hammer drill replace an SDS rotary hammer?

For holes up to 1/2 inch in standard concrete, a hammer drill is adequate. For larger holes, harder concrete, or volume drilling, an SDS rotary hammer is significantly more effective. SDS hammers use a different and more efficient hammering mechanism and accept specialized bits that outperform standard hammer drills.

What drill bit do I need for concrete?

You need a carbide-tipped masonry bit for a standard or hammer drill, or SDS-Plus bits for an SDS rotary hammer. Never use standard HSS twist bits on concrete - they overheat and fail almost immediately. The bit diameter should match your anchor pilot hole specification.

Can I drive Tapcon screws with a regular drill?

You can drive the screw with a regular drill, but the pilot hole is the problem. Tapcons need an exact undersized hole in concrete, and a regular drill struggles to produce one cleanly. Use a hammer drill with the matched carbide bit for the hole, then drive the screw in rotary mode.

Is a hammer drill safe for drywall and wood?

Yes - always drill drywall and wood in regular drill mode with hammer mode off. Using hammer mode in soft materials causes the bit to punch through violently, damages the material, and can cause injury. Modern drills have a clear mode selector, so verify the mode before drilling.

Related Guides

• Hammer Drill vs Rotary Hammer - When to upgrade to an SDS rotary hammer
• Impact Driver vs Drill - Which one do you actually need?
• Best Masonry Drill Bits - Right bits for your hammer drill
• How to Drill Into Concrete Safely - Step-by-step technique guide
• Drill Bit Size for Concrete Anchors - Every anchor, every bit size
• Drill Bit Selector - Instant bit recommendation for any material